Galapagos Islands

Ecuador

Backpacking the Galapagos Islands

A visit to the Galapagos Islands with its unique inhabitants has long been on our bucket list. The volcanic archipelago is known for its unique wildlife, including sea lions, lizards, and giant tortoises. The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago of volcanic islands in the Pacific Ocean, about 1000 kilometers from the Ecuadorian mainland. The islands are renowned for their unique and diverse wildlife, which was studied by Charles Darwin during his famous voyage on the Beagle.

Imagine a place where sea lions and lizards are just hanging out in the village like it’s the most normal thing to do. That’s the Galapagos Islands for you! We were blown away after our first minutes.

Shortly after purchasing our flights, we were getting a little worried: the Galapagos islands are supposedly one of the most expensive destinations in South America! There was no way we would be able to afford a Galapagos cruise, so we decided to backpack the islands. Although most of the islands are uninhabited and can only be visited by cruise ship, there are three populated islands (San Cristobal, Santa Cruz, and Isabela) where you can backpack and explore on your own. This article will share tips on traveling the Galapagos Islands without a cruise.

San Christobal – Islands of the sea lions

San Cristóbal caught us almost immediately. The closer we walked toward the malecón, the more the town seemed to belong not only to people, but to sea lions. They were everywhere — stretched across benches, sleeping in front of doorways, claiming corners of the waterfront with the confidence of long-time residents. In most places, you might notice stray dogs or cats. Here, it was sea lions, completely woven into daily life. It felt surreal at first, then strangely normal — one of those rare travel moments where nature is not somewhere outside the town, but right in the middle of it.

San Cristóbal is also the kind of island where you can choose your own pace. There are plenty of places to discover independently, from beaches and viewpoints to short coastal walks, but it is also a strong base for guided experiences. Tour operators offer 360-degree island tours, diving trips, snorkeling excursions and day trips to nearby islands. We could easily have stayed longer — not because San Cristóbal is polished, but because it feels alive, accessible and deeply connected to the wild character of the Galápagos.

Best places to stay in San Cristóbal

Cucuve Eco Hostal
A good choice if you want a small, more conscious stay with a personal atmosphere rather than a large hotel.

Eco Hotel Katarma
One of the more characterful options on the island, combining local art, color and an eco-minded approach in a central location.

San Cristobal | La Galapaguera Tortoise Habitat

It was our first time to see giant turtles and one of the main reasons to visit the Galapagos islands! The hundreds of year-old tortoises are free to roam around the area as they please, so you must keep your eyes open. We were lucky to arrive late (as always) around lunchtime, and it seemed like the tortoises were having lunch, too! We were lucky and saw about 20 giant tortoises as they all came together to one feeding spot! It’s incredible to imagine how old they are, how many things they’ve seen, and how they go on with their lives. We would have loved to interview one of those giants about their life perspectives! The center is also a breeding center, so we also got to see babies and mid-agers (younger than 100 years).

San Cristobal | Playa Puerto Chino

This picturesque beach, located about 30 km from the main settlement, is the perfect spot to relax after visiting the turtle conversation center. However, it’s not easy to get there. You can either go there by bike (it’s challenging), on tour or rent a taxi. Sadly, we couldn’t find any buses. So we took the most accessible and cheapest option. Our taxi driver dropped us off at the turtle conversation center, and we agreed he’d pick us up at Playa Puerto Chino in the late afternoon.

You’ll reach the secluded beach after a walk of about 10 minutes. The bay is home to sea lions, and we had the beach entirely to ourselves when we went. It was terrific to observe sea lions in their natural environment.

Helpful tip: There are no restaurants or any other facilities. So bring your food and drinks if you are without a tour. We ended up quite hungry. Also, bring bug spray because there are some horseflies around. They’ll only bother you on the way to or from the beach.

San Cristobal | Playa Mann

Our favorite beach on Cristobal! Why? We loved hanging out amongst the many sea lions who made this stretch of beach their home. Also, it’s the only beach we could find offering tasty, affordable, authentic food! It was the first beach we had discovered, and we loved watching the sunset from there. It’s a spot also visited by locals, especially during sunset hours. It was lovely to hang out and make new friends.

Santa Cruz | Turtles and touristic hub

Since we only figured out that it was easy to hop between the islands, our trip to Santa Cruz was spontaneous and unplanned. We were going to skip Santa Cruz for Isabella when a tour operator offered us a 360-degree tour for as little as 30$ each. He told us he had only two Bolivians on that tour and wanted to fill it up. So even though we got to spend very little time on the island, we got a good overview of what it had to offer.

Santa Cruz is, without a doubt, the touristic center of the Islands. The island is conveniently located right between Isla Isabella and San Cristobal. On the one hand, the tour gave us a good overview, but to be honest, we didn’t like running from one site to the other.

Best places to stay in Santa Cruz

  • Montemar Eco Luxury Villas — best for a conservation-led highland stay surrounded by giant tortoise habitat and a quieter side of Santa Cruz.
  • Semilla Verde Boutique Hotel — best for agro-ecotourism, local countryside connection and a slower stay away from Puerto Ayora.
  • Finch Bay Galápagos Hotel — best for a more polished eco-hotel experience with easier access to town, the sea and island excursions.

Santa Cruz | El Chato tortoise center

Our favorite thing to do in Santa Cruz was by far the visit to the El Chato, the giant tortoise center! We didn’t spot as many as in San Cristobal, but we could see them from an even shorter distance, and they are even bigger!

Santa Cruz | Las Grietas

On our tour, we also visited Las Grietas, a water tunnel that offers excellent snorkeling. You must hire a water taxi or walk about 20 minutes from the main pier to get there. It gets pretty crowded, though, with many people jumping and taking pictures. The walk there through unique fauna was more our thing.

Santa Cruz | Tortuga Bay

Tortuga Bay is one of our favorite places in the Galapagos. It’s a beautiful, secluded beach perfect for a relaxing day. It is split into two parts: the angry (brava) beach and the calm (mansa) beach.

How to get to Tortuga Bay

The Tortuga Bay trailhead is located at the end of Charles Binford Avenue, a few blocks behind the main tourist dock area close to Las Ninfas and hotel Fiesta. Just follow the path for about a mile and a half (30-45 minutes from the trailhead) to arrive. The trail is paved, flat, and easy, leading through an old lava field colonized by Palo Santo trees and Opuntia cacti. It is a pleasant walk, accompanied by Darwin’s Finches and Galapagos Mockingbirds flitting between the trees and the melodic tunes of Yellow Warblers. Don’t forget to look to the ground, where red-throated lava lizards scurry around the dry brush habitat. When you arrive at Tortuga Bay, you’ll be greeted by white sand beaches and turquoise waters. It’s truly a paradise!

 You can also reach Tortuga Bay by boat. The journey takes about 20 minutes and costs around US$10 per person. Boat departure times vary, so checking at the dock for information before setting off is advisable.

Santa Cruz | Playa Brava

Strong currents & great surf

As you reach the end of the trail arriving at Tortuga Bay, your first sight of white sand will be Playa Brava. The water currents here are powerful and most suitable for surfing. However, this is a strictly no-swimming zone as it can be dangerous.

Santa Cruz | Playa Mansa

Calm waters & wildlife

Save your swimming for Mansa Beach, where the water is crystal clear and much calmer. Tortuga Bay is teeming with marine life, such as iguanas, crabs, turtles, and many different types of birds. It truly is a nature lover’s paradise!

Isla Isabella – lizards and surfing

Isla Isabella is the least populated and least developed of the three islands we visited. As soon as we got off the boat, lizards greeted us. Casually hanging out, they weren’t bothered by passengers getting off the ship and walking past them. They look like miniature dinosaurs.

The island consists of one main settlement comprising charming one-story houses. You can find several restaurants and bars along the beach. Isla Isabella felt authentic. It’s one of those places where tourists and locals easily meet and get to know each other. The island is unpretentious and offers plenty of things to do.

Best places to stay on Isla Isabella

  • Chez Manany Galápagos Ecolodge — best for a quiet, nature-led stay near Puerto Villamil, with clear sustainability practices such as local craftsmen, renewable energy, water treatment and zero-waste principles.
  • Campo Duro Ecolodge — best for a more rural highland experience on Isabela, combining a family-owned ecolodge with a tortoise sanctuary near the slopes of Sierra Negra Volcano.
  • La Laguna Galápagos Hotel — best for travelers who want to stay close to Puerto Villamil and the beach, while still choosing a hotel with some sustainability efforts, including solar energy.

Isla Isabella – lizards and surfing

Isla Isabella is the least populated and least developed of the three islands we visited. As soon as we got off the boat, lizards greeted us. Casually hanging out, they weren’t bothered by passengers getting off the ship and walking past them. They look like miniature dinosaurs.

The island consists of one main settlement comprising charming one-story houses. You can find several restaurants and bars along the beach. Isla Isabella felt authentic. It’s one of those places where tourists and locals easily meet and get to know each other. The island is unpretentious and offers plenty of things to do.

Best places to stay on Isla Isabela

Surfing on Isla Isabella

A local friend told us that there is excellent surfing on the island. It’s one of the things tourists and locals love to do on the island. So we rented a surfboard for a day and had a fantastic time. The waves were great, and the water was crystal clear. We even saw some turtles while we were surfing!

Isla Isabela | Hike Sierra Negra and Volcán Chico

Hiking Sierra Negra is one of the best ways to experience the diverse landscapes of the Galapagos Islands. Although you could be forgiven for assuming that Volcán Chico is a volcano in its own right, it is just part of Sierra Negra and is considered to be a parasitic cone. In simple terms, this means it is another way for lava to exit the central volcano. Hiking Volcán Chico and Sierra Negra allow you to see two very different sides of the same coin. While Sierra Negra is primarily bald with very little vegetation, Volcán Chico is covered in lush greenery. The only way to access Volcán Chico and Sierra Negra is via guided tour. Tourists are not allowed to visit the area without a guide, and the Galapagos authorities are very strict about this.

The hike is open all year round, assuming the volcano is not in a period of high activity. During these times, Sierra Negra tours will be postponed until the danger passes. This can take weeks or even months. Hiking Sierra Negra is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see one of the most unique ecosystems on Earth.

Hiking the volcano takes around 5-6 hours from start to finish. Even though the trail’s incline is gradual, the hike can be strenuous for some due to the distance and heat of the equatorial sun. But trust us, the views are worth it! Once you reach the crater’s edge, you’ll be rewarded with an incredible panorama of Isabela Island and a sense of the scale of the eruption that created Sierra Negra. On a clear day, you can even see nearby Fernandina Island.

During periods of high activity, tours will be postponed until it’s safe to visit again.

Isla Isabela | Snorkeling Las Tuneles

Snorkeling Las Tuneles was by far one of our most unforgettable snorkeling trips ever! The boat ride itself already promised adventure. However, since the sea was rough this day, our captain had to undergo some quite thrilling maneuvers till we entered the area of las Tuneles. The collapsed lava tunnels are home to white-tipped sharks, turtles, giant pirate fish, and many other sea creatures. We even saw some seahorses in the wild! It was utterly unique! However, keep in mind that the Pacific is sometimes cold and rough. Also though we were wearing neoprene suits, we were still freezing. On our way back, we saw penguins, manta rays, and dolphins as they accompanied our boat. It was incredible! To top it all off, we even saw giant turtles in a romantic mood.

Practical Travel Tips for the Galapagos Islands

Safety in Ecuador varies by region and city, not uniformly across the country. Some urban areas have experienced increased insecurity, while many regions — including parts of the Andes, the Amazon, coastal towns, and the Galápagos — continue daily life much as usual. Staying informed, choosing accommodation in central areas, avoiding isolated places at night, and following local advice go a long way toward a smooth trip.

Ecuador uses the US dollar, which makes payments straightforward. Cash is widely used outside major cities, so carrying small bills is helpful.

Ecuador’s seasons vary by region rather than following a single national pattern. In the Andes and along the Pacific coast, the period from June to September is generally drier and cooler, well suited for hiking, city exploration, and time at the coast. The Amazon sees rainfall year-round, though conditions are often more manageable from August to February. In the Galápagos, June to November brings cooler, drier weather and strong wildlife activity, while December to May is warmer, with calmer seas and better snorkeling.

Because conditions differ across regions, Ecuador works well for flexible, region-focused travel. Choosing where to go matters more than choosing a single “best” month.

Spanish is the main language, and knowing a few basics makes travel noticeably easier. In tourist-facing areas and the Galápagos, English is often spoken, but in markets, buses, and smaller towns, Spanish (and sometimes Kichwa in the highlands) is part of everyday life.

The main inhabited islands — Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal and Isabela — are connected by small inter-island speedboats, often called ferries. They are the most common way to travel independently between islands, but they are not gentle ferry rides in the European sense. The boats are small, the sea can be rough, and most crossings take around two hours. Routes usually run between Santa Cruz and San Cristóbal or Santa Cruz and Isabela; there is generally no direct boat between San Cristóbal and Isabela, so you need to change via Santa Cruz.

I would build some breathing room into your itinerary rather than planning tight connections. Morning and afternoon departures are common, but schedules can change, and the crossings can be tiring. Pack seasickness tablets, keep electronics in a dry bag, and do not put anything fragile in your main luggage. Small inter-island flights also exist and can be worth considering if you want to avoid the boat or save time.

The rule is simple: keep at least two meters / six feet away from wildlife, even if the animal comes closer to you. Never touch, feed, chase or block animals for a photo. This matters because Galápagos wildlife often looks unusually relaxed around people, but that trust is exactly what needs protecting.

For me, this is one of the most moving parts of the Galápagos: animals do not perform for you. They simply exist in their own world, and you are allowed to witness it for a moment. The best photos are never worth disturbing that.

Pack light, practical and reef-safe. I would bring breathable clothes, swimwear, a rash guard, reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses, sturdy sandals or water shoes, a dry bag, seasickness tablets, a reusable water bottle, and a light rain jacket depending on the season. Binoculars are useful, and an underwater camera or phone case can be worth it if you plan to snorkel. Avoid bringing unnecessary plastic packaging — everything you take to the islands has to be managed in a fragile environment.

Yes, but it will still be more expensive than most places in Ecuador. The most affordable way is usually to stay on land, use local guesthouses, eat at simple restaurants, mix free or low-cost sites with a few carefully chosen day tours, and limit how often you move between islands. The unavoidable costs include the Galápagos National Park entry fee and the Transit Control Card, and foreign visitors aged 12 and over commonly pay a much higher park fee than Ecuadorian residents. Bring cash and check current entry rules before you fly.

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